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 It's the start of the pręt-a-porter season in Paris, the city of light… so what the hell am I doing here?!  Anyway, once again this season the talk of the runway is Christian Dior's star designer, John Galliano, and his fall/winter collection, dubbed Hard Core Romance.Galliano never fails to put on a memorable show, and last week he created quite a splash with a display influenced both by western fetish and Far East exoticism. Slinky models in full kabuki face paint and six-inch heels sashayed down the runway in Galliano's fetish-inspired rubber-cum-18th Century-cum-Oriental designs. And by the rave reviews of the collection, it's easy to see why Galliano's genius has netted millions for Christian Dior. Sample the reaction of Style's Sarah Mower to the Hard Core Romance line: "Take a pink, crystal-embroidered duchesse-satin coat, extravagantly ruffled with layers of organza, or a fragile chiffon dress patterned in mint, yellow and magenta—who wouldn't?" Mower gushed.  "Rubber leggings, cross-laced up the front, came with a peach-colored, gold-embroidered satin jacket, edged with a multilayer explosion of organza ruffles. A massive fur in three shades of lilac rode on a tiny, slinky minidress. The stripes and numbers of football jerseys got thrown onto wispy chiffon; the black-and-white fish prints from Chinese kites were dramatized into voluminous gowns. This was a collection studded with innumerable delicate, richly beautiful pieces."Designers from Givenchy's Alexander McQueen to Helmut Lang to Vivienne Westwood have been borrowing from the world of fetish to inspire their designs for some time now, with their experiments getting bolder each season. Galliano in particular has been pushing the envelope lately, with results at once critically acclaimed, profitable and controversial. What's different about the Hard Core Romance collection is that, rather than letting fetish ideas inform more mainstream designs, this time Galliano seems to be doing the opposite, allowing more mainstream elements to influence fetish wear—namely, rubber. Perhaps never before has rubber been fashioned in the way Galliano has envisioned it. Ruffles? Echoes of legendary society and fashion photographer Sir Cecil Beaton? All incorporated into rubber?  "I was fascinated by the idea of an electrical collision of two polar opposites," he told the Daily Telegraph before the show. "I wanted to treat Beaton's style in a very hard way and turn rubber into something romantic by making it frilly, swagged and swathed."Another well-received fetish element of Galliano's new collection was the skintight rubber leggings, which were slit up the front and tied up corset-style. And Galliano, a darling among celebrities from Britney Spears to Kirsten Dunst, is sure to get noticed for the Hard Core Romance line. Style's Gower reported that Gwen Stefani, on hand for the show, "displayed her own enthusiasm for the Dior bottom line." "Just how do I get my ass into that rubber skirt?" Stefani wondered out loud. Puleez. I've seen that ass (Stefani works out with a military drill instructor), and the famously svelte singer with abs like an ironing board should have no problem. Images courtesy of Dior.
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